Saturday, September 17, 2011

Burger Theory / Burger Foundry

Let me preface this post by telling you all that I like burgers. A good burger can be a very deep and personal experience. I wouldn’t call myself a burger connoisseur, however, love them I do.  I mean, how could you not?  Whether it be a quick bite on your way home from work with a few mates, the recovery meal of choice after a few too many shots the night before, or a thousand other circumstances in which sustenance is required, the versatility of a burger across all dining situations is clear. 
Burgers have a special place in my heart (and stomach).
The home-made ‘burgers’ that my mum used to make me as a child - comprised of a frozen faux-meat patty purchased from the supermarket slathered with Heinz tomato sauce and wedged between 2 slices of white bread (crust on of course).  The fast food chains (namely the corporate behemoth that is Micky D’s and its more focussed long time rival, Hungry Jacks) that have served me on many occasion throughout my life…the respective pros and cons of each have been subject to fierce debate and will surely be the subject of a future post. All the way through to the other end of the spectrum (or ‘gourmet’ varieties as I like to refer to them) which I have found I enjoy more and more as I increasingly head towards the big 3-0.... and it is these that are the subject of this post.
Firstly a little Burger 101.  Burger-nomics if you will.
Meat + Bun = Burger.  It doesn’t get much simpler than that. Obviously burgers get more complex, however in essence…at the very core, everything else aims to improve/complement the burger…they do not make a burger. 
Accordingly, the focus of this review is on these 2 primary aspects of the burger.  Don’t get me wrong, the ancillaries will be touched on – they are important after all, however, think of it this way…without either of them, could you really call it a burger?  With all of this in mind, onto the review.
I’d heard about these two respective burger joints and had been meaning to try each of them out for quite a while now.  Having eaten at each on two consecutive days, I can categorically say that burger quality and competition in sunny Adelaide has been taken to another level. 

Burger Theory

I won’t go into the concept of Burger Theory here.  Their website surmises it very well so pop over there and have a read: http://www.burgertheory.com/.
The line up at the Burger Theory van during peak lunch hour is infamous.  I’ve heard of people lining up and waiting for over an hour before receiving their meals.  It was for this reason that lunch was delayed on the day in question until an appropriate time (circa 2pm).  It worked.  Bear in mind however, that by going to lunch as late as we did we ran the risk of the van selling out for the day.  Thankfully, we made it in time (and with approximately 5 minutes to spare as they sold out shortly afterwards). 
Choices are simple at BT.  2 burgers, a couple of vegetarian burrito options and a cookie.  I’m here for the burger so a decision was required.  The classic simple burger (the # 1) or the fancier blue cheese and onion confit creation (the # 2).  As this was my first time, it was a reasonably easy choice given I was aiming to assess the quality of the burger in the purest form.  Numero uno it was…and one of your triple choc cookies too (why not). 
I’m handed an order disc reminiscent of the ones you receive when ordering at that Japanese place in the ‘Southern Cross’ food court…essentially it’s an electronic ticket which lights up when your order is ready.  From there we play the waiting game and take a seat on one of the cardboard box/seats that are scattered around the place (which are surprisingly strong and (unfortunately) are as comfortable as they look).  The wait begins.
The disc lights up, and so do our faces.  I pick up my order and hurry on back to my box/seat.  I take one look at this burger and the first thing that comes to mind is its size.  It’s small.  Potentially too small for a burger that cost $8…”Here we go…this had better be spectacular” I thought as I lifted the burger with one hand out of its paper/foil wrapping and open my mouth….
It was.
This is a breathtaking creation.  This is burger-crack.   The yard-stick has been shifted. “Well…it’s good…but it’s no Burger Theory” will echo across the quiet city of Adelaide, and burger vendors everywhere will know fear…thy name is Burger Theory.
Let us firstly start with the bun.  Lightly toasted to perfection and topped with sesame seeds, it is fluffy, only slightly chewy, yet crisp and oh so delicious.  Slightly sweet, almost like a toasted French brioche. I honestly believe it ranks right up there with the best burger bun I’ve tasted.  That’s a big tick for key element number 1.
Onto the meat patty.  Ticks all ‘round here also.  There was a spectacular mix of spices which when combined with the grill cooking process created what is categorically the best meat patty I have ever tasted.  Ever. 
The mix of beef meat and fat created a balanced, tender, juicy burger that I doubt will be equalled or surpassed in my lifetime (although I am heading to Sydney soon and may just get the chance to try Neil Perry’s burger which has been touted as the best in Australia).  And the final point in relation to the patty revolves around how it is cooked. 
In Australia, every burger I’ve ever had has been cooked all the way through.  ‘Well done’ if you will.  It’s just how we do things. I’ve long heard of the common practice in the States where the customer is asked how they would like their burger cooked, similar to how a person would advise the kitchen how they would like their steak cooked.  Failing this, a burger would be cooked medium to medium rare.  This has always intrigued me and I had always wanted to try it. 
BT did not ask me how I would like my burger cooked.  I was mildly disappointed at this at the time of ordering, however, that disappointment soon turned to delight when I took my first bite of the burger, enjoyed the flavour and juiciness of the patty and looked down at the half eaten mess I was holding in my hand.  A beautiful pink hue signifying a burger which was intentionally cooked medium/medium rare and further evidence which supports the notion that this is the way a burger really should be cooked. It really is a burger patty to end all burger patties. 
So that’s the bun and meat. What else was on it?  Very simple ingredients.  Some iceberg lettuce, a slice or 2 of tomato, a slice of American cheese and some sauce.  Doesn’t sound special right?  But like I’ve been saying all along, it’s not about these things.  You don’t want the ‘add-ons’ detracting from the 2 prize ingredients, and on that basis, they play second fiddle to perfection. 
This burger is the Chicago Bulls of yesteryear. 
The Michael Jordan of meat patties, his right hand man assisting as the Scottie Pippen of bread buns, and supported by the Steve Kerr/ Tony Kukoch/ Dennis Rodman of ‘add-ons’.
Epic.
Burger Foundry has its work cut out for them.

As a side note, whilst not the star of BT whatsoever, I must make mention of the triple choc cookies.  Beautifully sweet, with a sprinkling of salt which enhances the flavours and fantastically chewy. These things are very moreish.  I highly recommend they be picked up as a nice desert to follow the burger. Additionally, for those of you looking to visit, make sure you follow them on their website and check out the availability calendar.  Make sure you grab 2 burgers if you’re even mildly hungry.  You won’t be disappointed. 
4.5* / 5 Chillies
*As close as this burger was to perfection, the lack of a 5 chilli rating is purely a reflection of the fact that I nor my blogging constituents have eaten at every venue across the world.  Only once a complete population has been considered can the ultimate rating be finally dished out.  Some may disagree, but if you do? Feel free to sound of in the comments section.

Burger Foundry
The day after my visit to Burger Theory, and after spending essentially the rest of that day waxing lyrical to everyone who would listen about its magnificence, myself and Curly P decided it might be an excellent opportunity to pit it back to back with Burger Foundry (a place which neither of us have had the chance to try as yet).  We’d heard stories about the place being very busy and selling out so we made sure we were there at midday (opening time) in order to get a table and secure our feed.
Now it is my firm belief that Burger Foundry is in some way related to Chilli Mojo – a store about 4 stores down which specialises in all things chilli and spice related.  As such, whilst I desired to go for the simple regular burger when it came time to choose, it was difficult for me to look past the ‘Good Mojo’ burger – also being an avid spice/chilli lover (evidenced by my Chilli rating scale J).  I added a side of hand cut chips and we played the waiting game. 
It is at this point that I should say the burger cost $10.90 – a whole $2.90 more than the number 1 from burger Theory.  However (and forgive me for jumping ahead a little here), I was satisfied at the end of the meal. 
After 15 minutes or so, our meals arrive.  I catch a glimpse of the little shelf/area to the left of the point of order.  It is lined up with sauces.  I make a choice and sit back down to get stuck in.  The burger was easily twice the size of the BT burgers and therefore from a price point of view, chalk one up for BF.  It looked glorious. 
I pick it up (requiring 2 hands to eat) and taking my first bite, the first thing I notice is the bun.  A little on the chewy side for my liking and lacking the buttery sweet/saltiness of the BT burger it nevertheless performed adequately.  I was not disappointed by the bun, however this was partially because I was expecting the meat to completely exceed my expectations.   
It didn’t. 
Not bad by any means, but when comparing it to BT, it was dryer, overcooked (no hint of pink at all) and lacked finesse.  On the positive side, the char-grill and smokiness of the patty from what I believe would be exposure to direct flame, was excellent.  I think the meat/fat mix could be adjusted to make the patty juicier also, however having said all of this, it is by no means, average or sub average.  In fact I feel that had I not eaten the BT burger the day prior, I would have fallen in love with the BF burger.  Like I said earlier, Burger Theory has ruined me. 
The ancillaries were also adequate however not overly memorable.  The tomato salsa was nice and fresh and went well with the burger itself. 
Special mention should be made towards the sauces on offer.  Having only tried one myself I am definitely impressed by the spice and flavours in the sauces available and in fact am intending to head to Chilli Mojo and purchase a few to sample.  
The hand cut chips were reasonable.  Unfortunately not crispy however, I believe this is the intention as I have heard the same from other customers of the place. 
Overall, was I disappointed with Burger Foundry?  Yes.  Was it fair that I visited after going to Burger Theory just 24 hours prior? Probably not.  That’s like first eating foie gras and then moving onto chicken liver.  Or bedding Miranda Kerr only to leave her for Gweneth Paltrow.  There’s absolutely nothing wrong with chicken liver or Gweneth…but they’re no foie gras or Miranda.
Almost like poetry…I uttered:
“Well…it’s good…but it’s no Burger Theory”
3.5 / 5 Chillies

Over and out.
Moe V.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Adelaide - Vincenzo's Cucina Vera

Vincenzo.  Vincent.  Vince. Vinnie. 

Genius.

This is a review of one of the best Saturday evenings I've ever had in my home town of Adelaide.  Vincenzo's Cucina Vera.  http://www.vincenzoscucinavera.com.au/ 

Word of mouth has been favourable to this restaurant, as has been the critical acclaim it has received since inception approximately 4 years ago.  As such, I was eagerly anticipating this, my de-flowering experience - which almost did not happen.  You see, I left a voicemail with the restaurant to make a reservation for the Saturday evening in question and after 3 days had not heard back.  "This is not the sign of a quality restaurant" I thought to myself at the time, however, I thought I would try them one last time (bear in mind this was on the Friday before the Saturday evening I was hoping to book).  After a brief explanation on the phone, the lady on the other end said: "Sorry, I missed your name, are you 'Moe V'?  I've been trying to call you for the last few days however the end of your voicemail got cut off and I didn’t get the last few digits of your phone number....I've actually tried a few different combinations, but haven’t had any luck". 

"Wow" I thought to myself..."talk about attention to service".  Imagine your local Miccie D's trying to track you down after an incorrect order through the drive-thru (which for anyone who knows me - is a heartbreaking experience).  She followed it up with "It's only one day away, but I actually put aside a table for you when you left your first message just in case you called back".  Double wow.  This is how service should be everywhere.  "Sorry, I missed your name" I said...."Lara" she responded.  Of course it was. 

You see Lara wears many hats.  Co-owner of the restaurant, Vincent's partner and Maitre D' - she is exceptional. This is why it comes as no surprise to me when I did a little research and found she has won the 2012 Gourmet Traveller Maitre D' of the year award. Well deserved in my opinion. http://gourmettraveller.com.au/view-image.htm?index=13&gid=11018 

We arrive a little before 7:30pm to the beautiful cottage building on Unley Road and make our way to the door.  We are greeted, enter and decide we could do with a little bit of an apéritif before we sit down to our table.  I sit at the bar and say to our host “I’m in your hands – what do you recommend”.  Within 30 seconds, I hold in my hand a Campari with a dash of soda and orange.  Just what the doctor ordered - perfect. 

From here, I must apologise for the quality of the photos, as due to the lighting and my desire to not interrupt my fellow patrons with flash photography, the ones I have taken do not do justice to the dishes.  With that out of the way – we are seated to our table.

Our main waiter (Heath) brings over 2 glasses and some champagne.  “Please enjoy this as our way of congratulating you both on your special night” [I had mentioned in passing that we had gotten engaged recently].  Lovely gesture.  Shortly afterwards, a complementary aperitif was served.  My review notes don’t explain this in too much detail so I will be winging it on this one – the main memory I have of this was that it was served in a glass made of ice and the flavours were a liqueur made of grapefruit
finished with citrus foam. 

With amazing timing, upon completion of our aperitifs, Lara came over to explain the restaurant’s concept which I was familiar with previously. Nevertheless, it was a joy to hear Lara describe it in person with so much passion and excitement for what the restaurant is doing.  It’s contagious. 
In summary:

1.      No menu
2.      No prices
3.      Everything fresh and local
4.      Menu will be driven by what is good at the time

I was there for the full experience, so when asked if we felt like a certain number of courses, I responded “just keep them coming”.  Upon hearing that, Lara’s eyes lit up and I can only imagine she was thinking something along the lines of “these guys are happy to go along with the ride wherever it takes them – excellent”.  A wine list was placed before me and opened…I close it quickly and almost as if my mind was being read, Lara says “I take it you’re happy for us to also select your choices of wine?”  I nod, she removes the wine list, says “Thank you”, and so…it begins.

Before we delve into the night, I’d like to apologise for the lack of specific wine review/comments throughout.  Let me just say that there was more wine then I needed.  At times, 2 glasses per course.  The service staff and Lara were generous.  Very generous.  They matched perfectly to the dishes we had on the evening and came from all across the world.  I can highly recommend the matching wine selections.

Placed in front of me on a crisp white plate, in-house salumi (charcuterie to you Frenchies out there), a beautiful pane to my left and of course, the obligatory olive oil and balsamic to share.  The thinnest shaved pork fillet, cacciatore sausage slices, prosciutto, sopressa, pork cheek, pancetta.  This dish should be called ‘Pork heaven’.  From what I understand also, this is the only course which is a constant in Vincenzo’s menu, and that is no bad thing at all. 

Next, another complimentary dish – and quite possibly the best dish of the evening. It arrived on a thin stone serving plate and looked glorious.  In essence, it was a pork skin biscuit, topped with marinated cabbage, fresh wild edible flower blossoms and topped with a fresh locally caught yabbie. Words cannot express how good this was.  I made a point to mention to Lara that it was cruel of Vincent to do this.  To serve such an appetizer and not provide the option of purchasing more should be against the law.  It was in a word: sublime. 

Next up, entrée time.  The John dory cooked using a bronzing technique with a garlic and lemon olive oil, served with a potato crisp.  We were informed that the John dory was caught locally that morning and after tasting it – I did not doubt it.  Subtle yet complex is how I would describe this dish. The appetizer in the paragraph above was a tough act to follow, but this was excellent for completely different reasons.

Pasta was next.  I cannot recall the exact name of the pasta, but I do know it was hand-made and cooked perfectly al dente.  The sauce?  An ox-tail ragu which was phenomenal.  Whereas the fish dish was subtly flavoured and remained complex, the pasta was a bold flavoursome dish which was deep in flavour and highlighted the contrast between both dishes.

The main course arrived. Wagyu beef cooked in a waterbath style, served with morel mushrooms and ‘restaurant garden sand’.  The beef retained its pink hue as a result of the cooking method and was a magnificent way to end the savoury courses.  I couldn’t find out what was in the ‘sand’ but it complemented the mushrooms and beef spectacularly. 

Onto cheese.  Each cheese was from a different country and had a unique taste to it.  I was surprised there was no gorgonzola however the cheeses that were there were excellent. Dessert follows cheese, and on this night, Vincent put together a meringue with passionfruit sorbet and wild strawberries. I started to eat and was surprised by what happened next.  Popping and cracking could be heard/felt and I was instantly brought back to my childhood with images of the royal show and ‘Pop Rocks’ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pop_Rocks. Vincent was playing games now.  A final reminder that food is also about having fun.  It was magical.

I finish off the evening with a scotch.  Unfortunately, the selection of scotch left a little to be desired (no single malts – only blends) however, after that much food and that much vino, the scotch was already an unnecessary indulgence that I did not need.

The final surprise of the evening came when we asked for the bill (it was now 12:30am).  Lara came over with the bill and made a specific point to mention that ‘it was a pleasure to take you on the journey this evening.  You have been a joy to deal with and we’d just like to say congratulations again on your engagement.  Your scotch and coffee’s are complimentary as a gesture of our appreciation.  If there’s anything else you’d like please let me know.”  I was speechless but managed to think to myself “shut up…just shut up….you had me at hello…you had me at hello”.

In summary, in case it didn’t read that way, I love this place.  The combination of food, service and overall ambiance was spot on (even with the lack of scotch variety). 

In relation to the ‘no menu’ concept, I can see how some people may be put off by this…it can be somewhat frightening to have the choice of what to eat taken away from you.  Control freaks out there are in a lot of trouble, however, I implore you to give it a chance as it is an experience you will never forget.

Myself?  I found it liberating.  Not knowing what will come out next added an element of excitement to the meal.  I can think of endless times when I would sit down to a nice restaurant and be the last one to order because of the number of choices available and when my ultimate choice comes out and I see what everybody else has ordered, I get that feeling of remorse…why do I do that to myself. Eating experiences like this epitomise why I love ‘this thing of ours’.  The flavours, the wine, the service, the passion, the love for ones craft.  Do yourself a favour and go.  Even if just once.  Go.

Moe V.
Chilli scale rating: N/A*
*I do not believe the chilli rating scale is applicable in this case.  The review speaks for itself.  ‘Vincenzo’s’ and Lara stole our hearts. 

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Melbourne - HuTong Dumpling Bar



Well, here we go.  First review, and it's not even in Adelaide...for shame.  However, before you write me off completely, bear in mind that my travels to Victoria follows a long pursuit of those mouth-wateringly flavoursome and delicate Asian morsels known commonly as dumplings.  And on this occasion I am in search for arguably the mother of all dumplings...but onto that in a minute. 

It was an unseasonably warm night in Melbourne as I strolled onto Little Bourke Street.  My stomach rumbled as the melange of smells coming from what seemed like an unlimited number of restaurants hit my senses all at once and I began salivating like a crack addict after his next fix.  “Patience my precious” I muttered to myself – “your mission should you choose to accept it – is dumplings”.  I manage to resist the temptation to deviate from my pilgrimage and round the corner to Market Lane where, adjacent to Flower Drum (an establishment I intend to frequent and review at a later date), I see it.  HuTong Dumpling Bar.  I’ve arrived.
As we opened the door, unsurprisingly, we were greeted with a queue.  My heart sank.  You see, I was dining with my brother that evening, and years growing up together meant that I understood what a queue meant.  I took one look to my left and he said "well - maybe next time".  I stayed strong and despite his attempts at pulling rank on me (he is a few years my senior), the fact that I had handcuffed myself to one of the waitresses in protest coupled with the fact that it was my turn to pay for dinner, meant that he was in a difficult position.  Leave without me and pay for his own dinner, or god-forbid wait.  For anyone who knows my brother, the decision was clear.  He waited.

After a cruel 15 minute wait which felt like a lifetime, we were seated.  The decor is perfectly fine and doesn’t really require much discussion.  I do note that the seats were surprisingly low and also completely lacked any cushioning whatsoever.  "I've sat on worse"  I thought to myself - finding it very difficult to dislike a place which displays its workers with pride preparing the dumplings which had lured me here in the first place.  

http://hutong.com.au/
We order quickly. I don't spend long on the menu.  I go straight to the dumplings.  Xiao Long Bao - keep them coming.  Check.  Wantons with hot chilli sauce.  Check.  From here it was time to think of mains.  Salted braised pork in New style.  Why not.  Chicken wings in chilli. Yes please.  Stir fried string bean with minced pork in chilli.  Done. The menu kept going but this would do the two of us for this evening.

Then we wait.

Patiently.

The next 5 minutes felt like forever.  Each time a waitress would walk past, I think to myself, is this ours?  Please let this be ours.  Finally, on the 6th minute, she arrives with a deadpan emotionless expression on her face that anybody who frequents Asian restaurants with any form of regularity will recognise instantly.  She places them down.  The dumplings have arrived.

Now just so that we're clear.  I have experienced some good dumplings in my life. Each had their time and place.  Dumpling King and Julie's Dumplings in Adelaide are just a couple.  However, Xiao long bao is different.  For those of you who don't know, these handcrafted parcels of deliciously goodness are unlike your average dumpling.  It is the liquid broth held within the dumpling skin which brings takes this variety of dumpling to another level.  There are 3 main ingredients which in my opinion make up a perfect Xiao long bao.  1 - Smooth thin delicate dumpling skins.  2 - Flavoursome yet subtle broth.  3 - Pork mince filling that has just the right balance so as to not detract from the broth, but bring out the flavour of the entire dumpling. 



The best xiao long bao I've ever had is at Din Tai Fung in Sydney (subject of a much needed review also) - which is a Taiwanese franchise from my understanding, and having been quite a regular there on my travels to Sydney, it has a special place in my heart.  The Dumpling skins there are phenomenal.  Paper thin and translucent they almost melt in the mouth.  The broth is complex yet subtle and the filling?  Top notch.  The holy trinity.  Or so I thought.  I dive into my first dumpling, biting the skin and sucking the broth as it seeps out of the tiny opening I had created.  My first impression was that the skin was a little on the thicker side.  A little more chewy...not quite as smooth and silky as I would like...and began to feel disappointed.  Quickly afterwards however the flavour of the broth hits me.  The impact this had upon me was profound.  I had always thought that to create a subtle flavour, meant to create flavour that was more on the bland side without being bland.  The broth here was full of flavour, sweet, salty, a little sour, and oh so complex.  At the same time, there was a level of subtlety to it that took my breath away.  This...is how broth should be, and this is amazing.  I place my broth-less dumpling back on my spoon and take a dip of Chinese vinegar, a few ginger strips, and just a touch of chilli oil and place what remained of the dumpling into my mouth.  The filling was divine.  I can barely describe it, but just know this.  If you are any form of dumpling lover, until you've tasted these dumplings, your life will not be complete.  They're that good.  And they just kept getting better and better.  Onto the decision then.  Overall (and I didn't think I would ever say this), the HuTong Dumpling Bar Xiao Long Bao marginally trumped the Din Tai Fung ones.  On the holy trinity scale, the DTF wins hands down because of their ability to tick the boxes in all three categories, however HuTong and their broth and filling have stolen my heart.  It really is a case of "you had me at hello".   

The wantons in chilli sauce came next.  Sublime.  A perfect follow up to the Xiao long bao.  The flavor profile was completely different where the XLB were subtle and delicate, these wantons were a right hook from Ali in his prime.  Do not forget to order these.  As we finished them I had to restrain myself from telling the waitress to leave the chilli sauce as I'd be using it for other dishes.  Phenomenal. 


The mains were next, and as always, they were a little hit and miss.  Of the 3 mains our favourite was the Chilli chicken wings which were absolutely covered in stir fried dried chillies and shallots.  The spice packed quite a punch but was essential to the dish and went perfectly with a steaming bowl of white rice.  A warning to those who don’t like their food too spicy - don't order this one.  The next was the fried string beans.  A classic dish executed brilliantly.  Finally was the Braised Pork.  The only let down of the evening.  Not enough pork and what was there was too salty. 

In summary, if you're in Melbourne and enjoy dumplings in any way shape or form, this place is nirvana.  I'm looking forward to coming back. 
I may just load up on the dumplings next time though and forgo the main courses.

Until next time - keep on eating.Moe V 

4.5 / 5 Chilli's*

*The chilli scale system does not in any way shape or form measure the relative spiciness of the meals. They are a reflection of the overall quality of the food and dining visit.  There is no science to how the ratings are derived.  As the old saying goes, opinions are like ar$eholes.  Everyone has one.  Deal with it :)

Saturday, September 3, 2011

And so it begins

Hi eveyone, welcome to the Food P0rn Hub.  A blog created by 3 Adelaide foodies (I'm Moe V, and the other 2 are Curly P and Larry D) who love all things food and drink related.  Over the course of this blog, we are hoping to cover off on all facets of food and drinks, ranging from fine dining all the way through to those hangover induced day-after meals which we all cherish so much (Larry D - I'm looking at you). 

Please join us on our journy and exploration through local Adelaide/Australian establishments and more as we look forward to sharing with you, our faithful readers - 'this thing of ours'.

Food is life...life is food.
Moe, Curly, and Larry.